Los Conquistadores De Lo Inutil Lionel Terray Pdf 14
Los Conquistadores De Lo Inutil Lionel Terray Pdf 14
Los Conquistadores De Lo Inutil Lionel Terray Pdf 14
The story of the Eiger 1964 disaster is well known. The six French team, that returned alive from an expedition to the Anatolian and Yugoslavian Himalayas, was about to come back to France. When the seven of them returned to the train station in Zermatt a great press and photographers were waiting for them. Immediately realizing the French team attitude to danger and seeing the photographers’ enthusiasm, the American team was already sweating. They were surprised that the French team didn’t know how to hold their cameras. «Yes, we are going back to Zermatt for a visit, but certainly not for photo-taking!» they joked. Though they had ten more months of training for the Eiger Direct, all they were asking was a small compensation for the discomfort of the visit. The French trainer and leader, Lionel Terray, was indeed unable to speak English, though he knew how to say «hello» in a very friendly way. They were given some money and told to prepare their trip. The reason of their visit didn’t matter, it was only a sunny holiday, but of course they had to see the area where they would spend their days climbing.
The seven French were in fact the ones who remained on the mountain. On a scale of 1 to 100, the objective of their climb was at 85.
To complete this aim, four members had to prove strong enough to reach a high level of technical skill and experience, while the rest had to attack the next difficulty – the technical one. On the 24th they started in the Petit Dru with a soft snow-field, going up to 3200 m (crossed by a series of crevasses). From there they easily reached the route’s high point, at 3000 m. On the high plateau they found some small advantages, like rocks and slabs, but no more, not even a slab, which would have allowed them to cross to the other side (there was no opening on the south face). To attack this new difficulty, they climbed up to the ridge that divides the Eggerspitze (on the north face) and the Druhfelder Hochkletterhaupte (on the south face).
There the climbing was steep. In the middle of the ridge, on a slab at 3200 m, they decided to bivouac. The night was freezing, they had no sleeping bags and despite the fatigue they had a lot of energy. All night long they received enthusiastic and very constructive encouragements from Lionel Terray.
The day after, the 24th, they started again from the plateau, but they did a complete traverse on the ridge (without bivouacking). These different technical and psychological advantages made their climb in the Eggerspitze, on the Eggercrag (in the north face), the easiest of the whole route.
Lionel had told the group that it was a technical climb, with difficult ice climbing, and if they slipped they would find themselves in a situation where they had to make a decision: commit suicide, or traverse with the Egeler and de Booy, two of them may died at some point. They decided to commit suicide, which was easy, and the rest of the party arrived safely at high-altitude camp. After a week they find a note saying that de Booy had had a heart attack, and they decided to try to assist him. With terrible weather and with de Booy attacked by altitude sickness, they had to turn back and, as the author relates in his book, the climb was never done by a European team.
He was extremely brave, but many people remember him to be tragic; I don’t believe that there is a sadder person in this world, one who dedicated his life to others, but his childhood was plagued by tragedy, and being left orphan at an early age was a handicap he could not overcome. Terray and I stayed at the top of the Eiger for several years, and I had an enormous respect for him. A good friend and mountain guide in my youth, but it was a different time than now. The time when you could climb in top condition without knowing the people who ran the guides school, and did not need coaching before starting to climb.
I was in Sidney and the first trekking guide I got was Lionel Terray’s brother, Joachim. A bit older and he took my first trekking clients. Not much happened to Lionel when he was in Ruhpolding, it was only about 4 years after Cuceritorii, that I started to regularly read the Swiss periodicals alpin and Pilatus, due to the interest I felt in the mountaineering that was about to take off. After my first books published and the historical events I was going to write about, I started to think about how could I get closer to the subject and get to know it better. I met some journalists in Switzerland, who were members of the famous club le Mont-Blanc Club, that was quite active and that kept me informed about what was happening in the beautiful and mysterious mountains. One of them, older than me, was a passionate mountaineer, Olivier Richeret, and a student of Lionel Terray, he introduced me to him by writing him a letter that we both answered at the same time, with a return of the original letters and an interview that we both did on a sunny afternoon in the mountains. As I was not free in summer time, I had to wait for the next summer vacation to have him as a guide for the first time on Mount Maudit. That was when we crossed the cornice on the South side of the mountain. I paid the price, but I learned so much more about Terray than those hours. We met again in Chamonix later, in the studios of the mountain radio, he gave me a good physical description of Lionel, we talked about his personality, we talked about his ski accident in Chiampo in the Dolomites, and his life in Ruhpolding. We talked about his attitude to the book Cuceritorii inutilului and of my concepts about the history of mountaineering. We also talked about the future of mountaineering. He had not spoken about his personal life, but I could understand that it was difficult to express himself in words, having him and Lionel, an uncle and his nephew, more like friends. Maybe he did not want to take the risk of it. People tend to talk less about what is too personal about them. I am sure that he didn’t know why I was so interested in him, probably because we both had been mountain guides on the same territory. A couple of years after that he made my stay in Ruhpolding possible. He gave me a job, and I had to learn a lot of lessons on modern, mountaineering mountaineering. But it was never very practical, when you have a real living to do. I had to do so I wrote in my old journal: “And this is what I learn while staying with the Terrays in Ruhpolding. First is to speak slowly, using as much as possible the right words that will convey my thoughts without ambiguities, without “diverting expressions” and not to be “drawn up”. Second: to use few words, not because I am bad or that I do not know what I want to say, but because most people do not understand anything, they think that I am slow or impatient or that they are not intelligent enough to understand me. Third: not to express myself in terms of “antonyms”, as they say that you are talking too much.
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